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  1. #1
    Dołączył
    Apr 2009
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    769
    witam,

    chcialem sie spytac o porady dotyczace analizy przy uzyciue HEM albo innego softu - ktos chce sie podzielic jakims genialnym raportem / filtrem / odkryciem ?

    chodzi mi o cos bardziej szczegolowego niz 'sprawdz czy jestes na plus z pocketami / suited connectors'.

    ze swojej strony polecam sciagniecie / zrobienie sobie raportu 'wg tygodni' - od jakiegos miesiaca postanowilem sie zabrac za latanie dziur i fajnie mozna zobaczyc spadajace i zblizajace sie do siebie vpip i pfr.

    pytanie natomiast - czy 2175 bb / 100 w przypadku gdy trafiam seta oznacza 21.75 bb na rozdanie ? bo na przyklad w momencie jak sprawdzam SB i BB przy vpip false i saw flop false - nigdy nie wychodzi mi -50 lub -100 bb / 100, a tyle na chlopski rozum powinno byc.

  2. #2
    Dołączył
    Aug 2007
    Przegląda
    London, UK
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    918
    Cytat Zamieszczone przez 82rott Zobacz posta
    pytanie natomiast - czy 2175 bb / 100 w przypadku gdy trafiam seta oznacza 21.75 bb na rozdanie ? bo na przyklad w momencie jak sprawdzam SB i BB przy vpip false i saw flop false - nigdy nie wychodzi mi -50 lub -100 bb / 100, a tyle na chlopski rozum powinno byc.
    tak właśnie to powinno oznaczać. jeżeli chodzi o bb to wyjdzie Ci lepiej niż -100, bo od czasu do czasu dostaniesz walka. sb raczej powinno być -50, ale może jakieś pojedyncze sytuacje to zaburzają, zależnie od softu też, typu postowanie blinda poza kolejką, foldowanie z bb przed czasem poprzez wyjście ze stolika, już nie mówie ze czasem sb < 0.5bb np 10/25c

  3. #3
    Dołączył
    Apr 2009
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    769
    leak na CO - czego szukac ?

    28k hands NL10-25, na CO 3300
    early 14,2 bb / 100
    MP 47 bb /100
    CO -2.45 bb / 100
    BTN 46 bb / 100

    nie bede pisac na razie dokladnych numerkow. vpip i pfr mniej wiecej w polowie drogi miedzy MP a BTN.

    co moglo pojsc nie tak ?

  4. #4
    Dołączył
    Apr 2010
    Posty
    15
    Wrzucone z 2+2, może Cię zainteresuje (autor Pokey ):

    This is a how-to post, but it doesn't belong in the software forum; it's to teach people how they can use the Poker Tracker data to find flaws in their game.

    Not a week goes by that someone doesn't ask if they are playing the game right. In that post, they include a dozen numbers from Poker Tracker and hope that the old-timers on SSNL can fix all their holes. While it's true that Poker Tracker can help find problems, this is not the way to approach it.

    I'm going to try to give you a rough guide for the things you can do to check on your game. These are all just my opinion; they're all subject to interpretation, and other people may disagree with me strongly. The best way to play is usually player-specific, but these strike me as some things you can check on that are frequent flaws in the small-stakes player's game.

    1. Do you have sufficient preflop aggression? To answer this question, open up your ring game statistics and go to the "position stats" page. For each position other than the small blind, divide the "PF Raise %" by the "Vol. Put $ In Pot." If you get a number smaller than 0.5, you're not aggressive enough out of that position. See, aggression is a relative term; it should be a function of your level of looseness. You can be a consistently winning player at SSNL with a VPIP of 12%, and you can be a consistently winning player at SSNL with a VPIP of 30%, but only if you are sufficiently aggressive. My general guideline is that you should raise at least half the hands you play, from every position on the table.

    2. Are you positionally aware? Positional awareness means that you understand Ed Miller's comment when he said:

    Quote:

    Total all the dollars you've ever bet playing poker. The large majority of those dollars should have been bet from late position. Only a small percentage of your total handle should have been bet from up front.



    To test this, go to the Position Stats and look down the list of VPIP from Button to UTG. You should see that VPIP steadily dropping the farther you get from the button. I'd love to see my button VPIP at double my UTG VPIP, but if my Button VPIP is at least 50% larger than my UTG VPIP, I'm happy with the situation.

    3. How's my stealing? To check on your performance when trying a blind steal, go to the General Info. tab. Where it says "Att. To Steal Blinds" I'd like to see that number at LEAST 20%. (Personally, I like mine to be over 30%, but I'm very aggressive in these situations. If you're trying to steal the blinds less than 20% of the time, you're leaving lots of money on the table.) Now click on "Filters..." and under "Chance to Steal Blinds" click "Chance to Steal & Raised." Select OK and look at the numbers. This shows every time you've tried to steal the blinds, and how the attempt turned out for you. Under "Totals" see the "BB/Hand" statistic. That shows your per-hand winrate on blind steals. If you multiply this number by 100, it should be at least double your "PTBB/100" average winrate. If it's much less than that and you have a decent sample size, you have a hole in your game when it comes to blind stealing. This should be an exceedingly profitable thing to do when you try it; if it's not, you need to work on your strategy.

    4. Defending the blinds. Click on "Turn Filter Off," and then click on "Filters..." again. Under "Blind Status" click on "Either Blind." Now under "Vol. Put $ In Pot" click on "Put Money In." This shows you if you're bleeding money out of the blinds. A "BB/Hand" of about -0.375 would indicate that you were no better off putting money into the pot than if you had folded. If your "BB/Hand" is larger than that, then you typically win back some of your blind money when you put money into the pot from the blinds. That's all you can really hope for. If you click on "Filters..." again and go under "Steal Attempted Against Your Blind" and click on "Steal Attempted." After you click "OK" you'll now see how you did when you chose to defend against a blind steal. Again, the magic number is for your "BB/Hand" to be bigger than -0.375; that means you're making back some of your blinds when you try to defend against a steal. If either of these numbers is lower than -0.375, you'd lose less money by always folding rather than doing what you're doing.

    5. Heads-up play. Click on “Turn Filter Off,” then click on “Filters…” again. Under “Hands With Between…Players Seeing The Flop” change the range from “0 to 10 players” to “2 to 2 players.” Hit “OK” and see what comes up. This shows you how you’ve done when you were heads-up preflop, but a flop was dealt. See how you’ve done in these situations. If things look OK, go back to “Filters…” and under “Pre-flop Raise” select “No Raise.” This will show you how you’ve done when you didn’t raise preflop, but the hand was heads-up on the flop (this includes pure limping and when someone ELSE raised preflop, but not when you were the preflop raiser). Is this number positive? If not, it could be an indicator that you have trouble when you are not the aggressor preflop, especially without padding in the pot.

    6. Multiway pots. Clear the filter and go back under filters. Change “Hands With Between…Players Seeing The Flop” to “3 to 10 players.” This shows you how you do in multiway pots. If things look good, go back and select “No Raise” under “Pre-flop Raise.” Is it still positive? If so, you’re selecting good times to play/limp multiway pots, and you’re playing them well postflop.

    7. Pocket pairs. Under “Filters…” change the “Type of Hole Cards” to “Pairs.” This will show you how you generally play and perform with pocket pairs. Your Total VPIP with these should be EXTREMELY high; unless you play at highly unusual tables, I’d be surprised to see this number below 85%. Pocket pairs make extremely powerful hands that are extremely well-hidden; if you’re not playing them almost all the time, you’re leaving money on the table. Also, your Total PFR% with these hands should be rather high -- at least 1/3 of your VPIP, if not 1/2. Some people have this number higher still, and I don’t have a problem with that, especially at short-handed tables. If you have enough hands, I’d expect every one of these lines to be positive, and reasonably significantly so. If you have any glaringly negative numbers, especially AA-88, it may indicate bad play. Look over individual hands where you lose lots of money and see if you played too timidly early in the hand, or if you went too far unimproved in the face of resistance. Also, look at the hands where you won to see if you played too timidly, or if you routinely forced weaker hands out when you should have been milking them for profits.

    10. Postflop aggression. Clear the filter. Select the “More Detail…” button above the “Filters…” button. Scroll down. There is a section marked “First Action on Flop After A Pre-flop Raise.” This shows your likelihood of continuation betting. If you add Bet and Raise, the total should be at least 40%. If it’s not, you’re probably giving up too soon on your good hands, and that will cost you money in the long run. Remember: people who cold-call a preflop bet are often in fit-or-fold mode. If you don’t bet, you don’t give them a chance to fold. The pot is already decent-sized, and there’s no reason to give some donk a free look at a turn card that could sink you. If you raised preflop, you need a good reason NOT to raise the flop. Continuation betting should be your default play. Scroll down a bit farther to “Aggression Factor.” Your total aggression factor should be at LEAST 2. No-limit is not a game where you can call frequently and turn a profit. You should always be looking to see if you can raise or fold; only if you have a good reason why you CANNOT raise or fold should you call. As a result, calling should be an infrequent occurrence in your play, which gives you a large aggression factor.

    11. Check-raising. Some people never check-raise; others check-raise infrequently. I personally like to check-raise at least once in awhile; 1% would be fine, 0.5% would be acceptable. The goal of the check-raise is to remind your opponents that just because you checked does NOT mean that you don’t have a hand. However, circumstances need to be very specific for a check-raise to be appropriate. Typically, I check-raise on the flop when OOP against a preflop raiser, or on the turn when OOP against a flop bettor/raiser who was clearly not on a draw (uncoordinated flop). If you are check raising much more than 2% of the time, you’re being entirely too tricky for a SSNL table, and straightforward play would probably be more profitable for you.
    Edit: musiałem usunąć 2 podpunkty z sjuted i unsjuted konektorami bo się nie chciało zmieścić, pozdro

  5. #5
    Dołączył
    Aug 2007
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    London, UK
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    post pokey'a jest swietny, to klasyka. ale prosciej bylo dac linka po prostu

  6. #6
    Dołączył
    Apr 2010
    Posty
    15
    Cytat Zamieszczone przez uczniak Zobacz posta
    post pokey'a jest swietny, to klasyka. ale prosciej bylo dac linka po prostu
    No to daję:] The 2+2 Forum Archives: How to use Poker Tracker.

  7. #7
    Dołączył
    Aug 2007
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    London, UK
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    Cytat Zamieszczone przez 82rott Zobacz posta
    28k hands NL10-25, na CO 3300

    co moglo pojsc nie tak ?
    sample size...

    jak masz w miare normalne na fr odchylenie standardowe kolo 60bb/100, to z 3300 rak co trzeci raz przydarzy Ci się odchylenie od "prawdziwej" wartości o więcej niż 10.5bb/100, a co dwudziesty raz odchylenie większe niż 21bb/100. to chyba troche za duze wahania zeby przejmowac sie konkretnymi liczbami.

    jak chcesz znalezc leaki, to sprobuj znalezc na czym tracisz. zauważ że przy stealu z CO (w przeciwieństwie do BU) możesz być 3betowany przez gościa z pozycją na Ciebie. może zbyt często callujesz te 3bety oop i stawiasz się w nieciekawych spotach? może zbyt rzadko stealujesz? może stealujesz często, ale niepotrzebnie drogo (np 4bb lub 3.5bb otwarcie, co przy tak szerokim zakresie jaki powinno się tu mieć jest marnotrawstwem)? ciezko powiedzieć na takiej podstawie ale to chyba się domyślasz.

  8. #8
    Dołączył
    Dec 2008
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    Mysłowice/Gliwice
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    2,880
    Oczywiście uczniak ma rację, to bardzo mała próbka by cokolwiek powiedzieć.

  9. #9
    Dołączył
    Apr 2009
    Posty
    769
    thnx

    swoja droga piekne czasy musialy byc w 2006, niesamowite jak gra sie zmienia :
    "I raise almost nothing pre flop. My pre flop AF is .11
    Yet I have a 10.69 PT BB/ 100 winrate over the 54K hands in my poker tracker. Is pre flop raising really as important as people think? "
    *komentarz pod postem pokey'a

  10. #10
    Dołączył
    Apr 2017
    Posty
    3
    i co z ta analizą

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